Wild asparagus can be found in France in spring; it looks vaguely like the tamer variety with thinner stems. The first time I tried them, I was at Le Voltaire on the Right Bank–it was a revelation! I love the grassy astringency and gentle texture.
Even if you cannot find or forage them, it is the season for any asparagus (including the white stalks). The domesticated ones can be prepared in the same way, and are especially tasty with eggs (see my previous posts “Easy Omelet” and “Foolproof Poached Eggs”). Or simply simmer until tender and toss with a vinaigrette (see “A Simple Vinaigrette”).
Truc (Tip): It really is best to break them to separate the toughest part.