Michel Richard, chef of the closed Citronelle in Washington and of Villard in New York, was front and center (coming out of the kitchen) for our recent meal at Central, his bistro in Washington. Maybe that is why the food is so much better here than at Villard, which was put in its place in a New York Times review:

We also dined at Citronelle before it went under in 2012 and were moved by the signature salade nicoise and mosaic carpaccio dishes. The chef was there, as well, on top of things.

At Central, Michel Richard gets it right. We had eel and tuna carpaccio, escargots pizza, loup de mer (sea bass) with mushrooms and arugula, trout amandine with sunchokes and salsify, millefeuille, and macarons. We were left with a very pleasant taste in our mouths…


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