Red Hot

Summer is wining down—time to reach for a red that can be slightly chilled (see my post “Chill”)…

The Cream of the Climat

The “climats,” or individual vineyards, in Burgundy have received UNESCO recognition as World Heritage sites.


 Bacon is a beacon that lights your way to so many plates…

In a salad (see my posts “Salad Days” and “Salade Lyonnaise”) or in a stew (see my posts “Boeuf Bourguignon” and “Coq au Vin”) or with legumes (see my posts “Lentilles du Puy” and “Pease porridge hot…”) or with pasta (see my post “Carbonara”), it is the source.

Search my site for “bacon,” and see how far you go.

The Jerez of the Dog That Bit You 

Sherry is fortified, and is also a fine wine. Will Lyons recommends it as an aperitif anytime:

Clam Up

 The easiest way to enjoy a dinner of clams is with pasta.

Buy a few dozen clams (these are littleneck) per person and soak them in cold, heavily salted water (it should taste like the ocean) for two to three hours.

Cook spaghetti or linguine to package directions.

Bring to boil in a stock pot a glass of dry white wine (which will pair nicely with the finished dish) and a clove of crushed garlic, drop in clams, and cover to steam. Remove clams as they open, discarding any that stay closed. 

Strain the broth through a layer of cheesecloth, add the juice of a lemon and chopped parsley, and return the clams. 

Serve over pasta with a drizzle of olive oil. 

Uncork a Franciacorta!

This Italian sparkling wine, in the methode champenoise, is being served by Daniel Boulud and Eric Ripert. Mon dieux! Move over Champagne?

Chef Shortage?

Or a lack of interest in low salaries and long hours? At least in some cities, restaurant pay rates are rising to seek and keep talented chefs…

“A Thousand Kisses Deep” 

This mille-feuille feels “a thousand kisses deep” [Leonard Cohen]…

Buy a sheet of high-quality frozen puff pastry (see my post “Frozen Puff Pastry”) and cut in half, and then cut each piece in thirds. Bake until golden-brown, according to package directions. Whip some cream with powdered sugar and rose water to taste. When pastry is cool, layer three pieces with whipped cream and fresh raspberries, and dust the top layer of pastry with powdered sugar (you will have two mille-feuille).

La Folie

It is not madness that leads you to La Folie in San Francisco. This one-Michelin-starred restaurant in Russian Hill is cozy and refined at the same time. Many of the menu items are from local farms. There are multiple options, including a tasting menu and set prices for three, four, or five courses. It makes … Continue reading


This chilled Spanish soup is ideal for a summer meal… Here is a rough ratio of ingredients, but it’s best to taste as you go: Stem and seed five medium heirloom tomatoes and a red pepper, and peel a seedless cucumber and two cloves of garlic. Process with a few tablespoons of sherry vinegar, twice as much extra-virgin olive oil, and a few pinches of salt. This is your base, to which you can add more of the chopped vegetables, including red onion, toasted bread crumbs or croutons, parsley or basil, and even cooked fish or shellfish. You can also strain it first for a smoother soup. Drizzle with more olive oil before serving.

Truc (Tip): A chef I know says you should use enough vinegar to taste it!


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