Poisson Passion

Dan Barber talks about falling in love with a fish, and how raising it on a farm is the only sustainable way:

La Maison Maille

In Dijon, you must visit the Maille moutarde boutique. Since 1747, La Maison Maille has been making high-quality mustard and boasts 84 flavors, from the original with white wine to black truffle and Chablis. Among our favorites, which can be stirred into a basic cream sauce or vinaigrette as well as spread on a sandwich, are parmesan and basil, green peppercorn, and creme de Cassis. You can also find them online: http://www.maille.com.




Brillat-Savarin crowned it the king of all cheeses—Epoisses de Bourgogne, the round, golden one below, is creamy enough to serve with a silver spoon.


Ma Cuisine

Memories of a bistro meal in Beaune a year ago overwhelm me…


La vie en rose

Valentine’s Day is coming, and someone might be expecting a gift. May I recommend impeccable pink roses and rose Champagne? Et beaucoups de bisous?

How to Stew

This dish does not require a recipe; it takes a technique, and the ingredients are interchangeable.

Truc (Tip): For a more full-bodied broth, dredge meat in flour before browning.


The Pressure to Preserve 

Among the many wine preservation techniques, you will take away only a few from this article:



When I enter a restaurant and see a chalkboard prominently featured, I know I’m in the right place. What does it mean? First, it is tres francais—almost any bistro in Paris has one. Second, it means the chef is motivated to change the specials often, if not daily, based on available ingredients or spontaneous inspiration. If you happen upon a cafe with a blackboard and chalk-white curlicue lettering, I advise you to set aside the regular printed menu. Each offering might be erased or struck through (with a squeaky scrape) at any moment, if products are limited, which adds to the excitement of dining in such an establishment!

Don’t sweat it…

 Even Burgundy is still just wine, grapes cultivated with much labor from the soil—but, oh, the best earth on the planet. Read about and taste this transcendent terroir in Eric Asimov’s Wine School:


Passion Fruit Cheesecake

This passion fruit cheesecake by Jose De Brito was inspired by Christophe Michalak’s; you can find the recipe in his Les desserts qui me font craquer. It is more like a bavarois than a cheesecake, more airy than dense. This version sans mango coulis has a confetti of citrus zest, and is a party in your mouth!


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